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I just had one put in today from Home Depot. It was $800 for 40 gallon heater which included installation. I think if you don't have a licensed person put it in then your warranty may be voided but I may have misheard.
Do it yourself if electric.
Shark bite clamps onto copper pipe ftw
2-3 hr job
That's a sacrificial anode and you want to leave it alone. It will dissolve as it keeps the electric charge from eating the tank walls
I had to replace a section of water line in my basement that froze and burst a few winters ago. I never sweated pipe before and managed to do it in two tries, a few hours and 6 beers. Tools and supplies can be had for under $50, and there is plenty of good instructional material available on the internets.
Not sure if this helps, but this is what is there now.
This post has been edited 4 times, most recently by fearthenoodle 14 months ago
Piece of cake. The water lines are screw down connections and you can land the electric inside the heater with a screwdriver or wrench.
My god - its brand new.
Go buy an upper and lower thermostat and two new elements. Turn off the water, attach a garden hose to the valve at the bottom and drain it. Replace the stats and elements, refill and power up
Well, it's been here at least 7 years, which is when we moved in. The Mr. Rooter guy said that one of the elements was busted, and that the other one would probably not last more than another month or two. That we'd be better off just replacing the unit.
This is why I come to the suque. I have no clue whether I'm getting ripped off or not.
This post was edited by fearthenoodle 14 months ago
This is what the thermostats look like, they run about $20 for the upper and $15 for the lower.
There are two kinds of elements - screw in or bolt in, $15 each
If you have the screw in I highly recommend buying the wrench that removes the elements, it looks like a big socket
I'm sure there are youtubes on replacing them so your investment is less than $100 bucks and it should be good for another 7+ years
That's BS. Did the repair man check the element? It could also be a faulty thermostat. If it's not leaking from rusting out, replace the element, which requires draining the tank, disconnecting the wires to it, unscrewing the old element and screwing on a new one. Your repair man is trying to rip you off.
I was at work, just the wife was home. He did a "diagnostic check", which she had to pay $110 for, and then told us one of the elements was busted and wasn't holding a charge, which was why the water wasn't staying hot (that was why we had them come out in the first place).
Yep. Don't forget to pick up your .99 teflon tape and you're good to go.
What ever you do, don't replace the whole tank. If you don't have a volt meter to diagnose it yourself, pull the element he said was bad and if he diagnosed it correctly for his $110 you will be good to go. I've been a home owner for 20 years now and have had to replace 1 element and 2 thermostats over the years. You really don't need to replace the tank unless its rusted out.
So it seems like the consensus is that I should look to replace the elements (and maybe the thermostats?) rather than the whole unit?
Is that an easy do-it-yourself thing?
Also (dumb question), where would I buy those? At HD/Lowes? And they are one size fits all?
If your wife doesn't think that you can replace a water heater I can't wait to hear what she has to say when she finds out you are going to take apart the water heater.
Something like this?
Find Utilitech Universal Tune-Up Kit at Lowes.com. Lowes offers a variety of quality home improvement products that are available for purchase online or in store.
In theory, shouldn't this be slightly easier than replacing the whole thing?
This thread demonstrates Suque knowledge can address any problem under the Sun!
Exactly like that
Here's a pretty good demo, for some reason the guy forgets that you can simply open the hot water side of the faucet on your laundry tub to vent the air from the tank when draining and filling instead of using the overflow valve on top of the tank. Also depending on where the WH is located you may just drain it into the sump pit if the laundry tub isn't below the bottom of the WH.
Also when you re-water the rest of the house SLOWLY crack the faucets to allow the air to escape and let the water SLOWLY fill the pipes. Its easier on the equipment.
Created on April 24, 2010 using FlipShare.
Check your PMs.
You really don't need to replace both elements, only the one that is bad. It's way easier than replacing the whole unit and you might as well learn to do it as they really do periodically go bad.
Well, I got the Lowes kit, with 2 new elements and 2 new thermostats, and will be attempting this tonight. Thanks for all the advice, and Noah especially for answering a bunch of dumb questions via PM so that things hopefully go smoothly.
Good for you. If it were me, I'd replace the said faulty element 1st and if that fixes it, keep the other element and thermostat for when you will need them which may be years down the road. One piece of advice I have is to really tighten the thermostat as you don't want a loose connection.
I just used those shark bite valves over the weekend to fix my father-in-law's sink. The depot guy (up in the mountains of Northwest Jersey!) turned me on to them. Those are amazing, I keep meaning to Google them to understand how they work.
Sorry for the derail.
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