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Are you a car person? (part deux)


  • Synthetic detailer is the greatest new product since toothpaste. If you haven't heard of it, you can thank me in this thread. If you have and use it, which brand do you use?

    I've gone through one bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer and a half bottle of Turtle WAX Ice Spray Detailer. Both are amazing, but I'm thinking the Meguiar's is better than the Ice.

    Let's get this thread back on the road.

    attachmentattachment

    Terp75

  • So it takes the place of wax?

    hokthu


  • I'm not sure if it takes the place of wax, but it sure gives you the same shine. It's really amazing, you just spray it on and wipe it off. It takes me about 7 minutes to do my whole car. 10 if I do the wheels too. It doesn't matter it you get it on anything, it will clean that too. It acts like rain-x on the windows. In fact, it's like rain-x for the whole car.

    Terp75

  • One of my xenon headlight bulbs is out. Some questions to anyone willing to answer them:

    What's the difference between the $26 pair of replacement bulbs and the $90 bulbs?
    Do the "k" values indicate bulb brightness?-I've since learned it is the color of the light. Is it silly to go with a whiter light (say 5000k or 6000k) despite less brightness?
    Do you have a recommended "k" value (looks like the OEM is 4300k)?
    Is there reason to replace both bulbs now or should I wait until the other goes out?

    This post was edited by CivilTerp on 9/27/2010 at 10:17 AM

    Amazon.com: d2r Automotive Headlights

    Online shopping for d2r Automotive Headlights from a great selection of Automotive & more at everyday low prices

    www.amazon.com

    CivilTerp

  • For lack of a better thread to put this in, a question about negotiating with dealers:

    Are internet prices on cars nowadays close to as low dealers will go? I'm looking for a used 2008 MDX with <35,000 miles on it, preferably with either the tech or sport package, a clean CarFax, and perferably either black or dark gray.

    I found something that met *all* of the criteria, test drove it, thought it was great. I told the dealer I wasn't going to buy that day, but he insisted on giving me a quote after I drove it, which he said was $36,999. I told him I was still looking around a bit, and he dropped that price to $36,000 without me asking. (I really wasn't prepared to buy anything that day, so I left without trying to negotiate.) Online, it's listed for $34,988: http://frankelacura.com/Baltimore-Maryland/For-Sale/Used/Acura/MDX/2008-Sport-Entertainment-Pkg-Black-SUV/4400651/

    It's now two days later, and I called them and tried to offer $33,000, but they said they wouldn't even listen to offers, and the online price was as low as they could go. Is it really possible they have no little to no wiggle room on the online prices? I figure since it's the end of the month, now would be the best time to buy, right? If it matters, I'm not going through the dealer for financing, and I have an '02 Civic to trade in that will fetch $3,000-$3,500 (maybe $1K more if I sold it on my own, but I doubt I will.)

    I won't be heartbroken if I don't get this car, but I really do like it, and I might even be willing to even pay $34K (though I'm not paying the internet list price.) Will he call me back or not? Is there really *that* little room for dealers to negotiate nowadays with internet pricing so prevalent?

    Thanks.

    (And this will be the wife's car, not mine.)

    UMTerp

  • UMTerp said...

    For lack of a better thread to put this in, a question about negotiating with dealers:

    Are internet prices on cars nowadays close to as low dealers will go? I'm looking for a used 2008 MDX with <35,000 miles on it, preferably with either the tech or sport package, a clean CarFax, and perferably either black or dark gray.

    I found something that met *all* of the criteria, test drove it, thought it was great. I told the dealer I wasn't going to buy that day, but he insisted on giving me a quote after I drove it, which he said was $36,999. I told him I was still looking around a bit, and he dropped that price to $36,000 without me asking. (I really wasn't prepared to buy anything that day, so I left without trying to negotiate.) Online, it's listed for $34,988: http://frankelacura.com/Baltimore-Maryland/For-Sale/Used/Acura/MDX/2008-Sport-Entertainment-Pkg-Black-SUV/4400651/

    It's now two days later, and I called them and tried to offer $33,000, but they said they wouldn't even listen to offers, and the online price was as low as they could go. Is it really possible they have no little to no wiggle room on the online prices? I figure since it's the end of the month, now would be the best time to buy, right? If it matters, I'm not going through the dealer for financing, and I have an '02 Civic to trade in that will fetch $3,000-$3,500 (maybe $1K more if I sold it on my own, but I doubt I will.)

    I won't be heartbroken if I don't get this car, but I really do like it, and I might even be willing to even pay $34K (though I'm not paying the internet list price.) Will he call me back or not? Is there really *that* little room for dealers to negotiate nowadays with internet pricing so prevalent?

    Thanks.

    (And this will be the wife's car, not mine.)

    I can't believe that's the lowest they will go, especially on a used car. My motto is they will always go lower on anything in print (or on a website.) We bought a new stock 2009 very late last year, and, while we were trading in so it isn't really possible to split up exactly what the car price and exactly what the trade was, I don't think that the actual final price which was agreed on for the car was much more than what that one is advertised for. Sure the Ent adds value, but once the 2012s come out, the 2008 is 5 model years old. I ahvben't done any research on the MDXs since then, but 35k seems high.

    Oh, and you will probably need to go into the dealership to get their best price.

    This post was edited by flaTerp on 9/28/2010 at 4:30 PM

    flaTerp

  • Devils0720 said...

    I'm looking for a used car, no older than 2007, under 25k...what are my highest quality options?

    You could swing a BMW in that price range maybe, you've got alot of options. Obviously total cost of ownership is higher, BMWs and Audis can definitely be had in that range. There are also alot of Acura fans on this board who speak very highly of their cars I think.

    AstrMikeDexter

  • Internet prices are typically pretty close to their minimum. The idea is that because you are shopping online, you are a savvy shopper who knows what cars are going for elsewhere, and they don't have the asymetry of information that they usually base their business around.

    Speaking of detailing, I've got a high mileage sedan I commute in that has developed that little bit of grime on the wheel, gearshift, controls, etc. What do you guys use to get that stuff off?

    AstrMikeDexter

  • Picking up a new 2011 Mustang GT with the 5.0 engine sometime in the next few weeks as a 2nd car. Very excited.

    This post was edited by BoostedTerp on 9/28/2010 at 9:00 PM

    BoostedTerp

  • BoostedTerp said...

    Picking up a new 2011 Mustang GT with the 5.0 engine sometime in the next few weeks as a 2nd car. Very excited.

    Color? How much? Pics?

    BoniMaroni

  • It's black, 35k OTD.

    attachment

    BoostedTerp

  • Terp75 said...

    Synthetic detailer is the greatest new product since toothpaste. If you haven't heard of it, you can thank me in this thread. If you have and use it, which brand do you use?

    I've gone through one bottle of Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer and a half bottle of Turtle WAX Ice Spray Detailer. Both are amazing, but I'm thinking the Meguiar's is better than the Ice.

    Let's get this thread back on the road.

    Not that I have anything against synthetic detailers, but does anyone have any experience with paint clay? I'm looking to clay, polish, and wax my car, and I was wondering how hard it is to clay a car (I've polished and waxed plenty of times before) and how much time it might add. The car is only a 2008 and I keep it in good shape, but the front bumper has tons of crap in the paint that I'm pretty sure clay would get out.

    Or is it even worth the time?

    spiffylubes

  • I'm so tore right now... I'm in the process of figuring out what color to paint my '66 Chevrolet truck...

    First pic is my truck.

    Second Pic is Hot Rod Black
    Third Pic is Cyber Gray Metallic.
    Fourth Pic is Lexus Blue

    Decisions, Decisions...

    attachmentattachmentattachmentattachment

    PantsEnFuego

  • PantsEnFuego said...

    I'm so tore right now... I'm in the process of figuring out what color to paint my '66 Chevrolet truck...

    First pic is my truck.

    Second Pic is Hot Rod Black Third Pic is Cyber Gray Metallic. Fourth Pic is Lexus Blue

    Decisions, Decisions...

    My first choice would be the blue, but if you don't want that flashy then the hot rod black. I don't really like the flatter gray in the middle.

    spiffylubes

  • Hey UMTerp - I have a friend that might be selling her black MDX. I think she's had it about a year so it's probably a 2009. Are you set on getting an 08? I can ask her if she might be interested if you would be interested in going the private party route.

    julester

  • CivilTerp said...

    One of my xenon headlight bulbs is out. Some questions to anyone willing to answer them:

    What's the difference between the $26 pair of replacement bulbs and the $90 bulbs? Do the "k" values indicate bulb brightness?-I've since learned it is the color of the light. Is it silly to go with a whiter light (say 5000k or 6000k) despite less brightness? Do you have a recommended "k" value (looks like the OEM is 4300k)? Is there reason to replace both bulbs now or should I wait until the other goes out?

    Color Temperature is a measurement in Degrees Kelvin that indicates the hue of a light source, in this case the HID bulb. People not familiar with lighting may believe that the higher the Kelvin the brighter the light will be, this is false. OEM car manufacturers equip their cars with 4100k to 4300k HID bulbs which produce the most daylight-like light output. Lower temperature like 3000k will produce deep gold-yellow color, suitable for fog lights. Higher color temperatures will output light with a hint of blue/purple like the 5000k - 6000k bulbs, higher rated bulbs will be bluer and eventually purple in color as you go up the scale.

    I usually replace just the effected bulb unless I'm changing to a different k value, but some folks always change both at the same time because the second one will probably go out soon anyway.

    terp80

  • BoostedTerp said...

    It's black, 35k OTD.

    no convertible?

    BoniMaroni

  • terp80 said...

    Color Temperature is a measurement in Degrees Kelvin that indicates the hue of a light source, in this case the HID bulb. People not familiar with lighting may believe that the higher the Kelvin the brighter the light will be, this is false. OEM car manufacturers equip their cars with 4100k to 4300k HID bulbs which produce the most daylight-like light output. Lower temperature like 3000k will produce deep gold-yellow color, suitable for fog lights. Higher color temperatures will output light with a hint of blue/purple like the 5000k - 6000k bulbs, higher rated bulbs will be bluer and eventually purple in color as you go up the scale.

    I usually replace just the effected bulb unless I'm changing to a different k value, but some folks always change both at the same time because the second one will probably go out soon anyway.

    Thanks. Do you think I should spend $45+ to get a name brand (Sylvania, GE, or Philips) or is it ok to get a pair of JLM Elite bulbs for $22?

    Also, is there any reason I should hire a mechanic to do this or is it as easy as replacing any other car bulb?

    CivilTerp

  • CivilTerp said...

    Thanks. Do you think I should spend $45+ to get a name brand (Sylvania, GE, or Philips) or is it ok to get a pair of JLM Elite bulbs for $22?

    Also, is there any reason I should hire a mechanic to do this or is it as easy as replacing any other car bulb?

    If they're like typical headlight bulbs, its almost always really simple to replace them yourself. Just look around right behind the lens inside the engine bay, and they twist and pull out.

    In my experience, the cheaper ones tend to die a lot faster. I had some in my old Accord and they would died every 8-12 months which was ridiculous. I'd go for the name brand ones, but that's just me.

    spiffylubes

  • Yup, I use clay, you just have to make sure you use plenty of lube between the bar and the car. Griots Garage makes a great clay kit for this. Clay gets all kinds of crap off the car, but be easy with it because it actually grinds down the clearcoat/paint some, which makes it smoother and gives it more reflective ability. You don't want to jam the bar on dry and screw up your paint. Griots has a good faq for this.

    I do not work for Griots.

    Kugelblitz

  • Kugelblitz said...

    Yup, I use clay, you just have to make sure you use plenty of lube between the bar and the car. Griots Garage makes a great clay kit for this. Clay gets all kinds of crap off the car, but be easy with it because it actually grinds down the clearcoat/paint some, which makes it smoother and gives it more reflective ability. You don't want to jam the bar on dry and screw up your paint. Griots has a good faq for this.

    I do not work for Griots.

    What about time?

    Everyone's telling me it's worth it for a great finish, but I'm wondering if I'll even have the time before I move up to Arlington soon and won't be able to go over to my parents' house to use their garage for these things.

    spiffylubes

  • CivilTerp said...

    Thanks. Do you think I should spend $45+ to get a name brand (Sylvania, GE, or Philips) or is it ok to get a pair of JLM Elite bulbs for $22?

    Also, is there any reason I should hire a mechanic to do this or is it as easy as replacing any other car bulb?

    It may depend on whether or not you have factory installed xenon lamps or if they are from a conversion kit. Many dealers use proprietary plugs...the way the bulbs attach to the ballast. In this case, if you don't get the bulbs from the dealer, they might not be plug and play.

    terp80

  • spiffylubes said...

    If they're like typical headlight bulbs, its almost always really simple to replace them yourself. Just look around right behind the lens inside the engine bay, and they twist and pull out.

    In my experience, the cheaper ones tend to die a lot faster. I had some in my old Accord and they would died every 8-12 months which was ridiculous. I'd go for the name brand ones, but that's just me.

    Ok, thanks.

    CivilTerp

  • terp80 said...

    It may depend on whether or not you have factory installed xenon lamps or if they are from a conversion kit. Many dealers use proprietary plugs...the way the bulbs attach to the ballast. In this case, if you don't get the bulbs from the dealer, they might not be plug and play.

    The guy at the dealer told me I could get them myself and save a ton of money, but he said he wasn't knowledgeable about what bulbs to get.

    From what I understand, any D2R headlight bulb, of which there are many models, will fit.

    This post was edited by CivilTerp on 9/29/2010 at 2:22 PM

    CivilTerp

  • julester said...

    Hey UMTerp - I have a friend that might be selling her black MDX. I think she's had it about a year so it's probably a 2009. Are you set on getting an 08? I can ask her if she might be interested if you would be interested in going the private party route.

    I'm kind of apprehensive about going the private party route for a vehicle that expensive, but I guess I'd consider it depending on the price. Do you know why she's getting rid of it?

    UMTerp

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